Eden Gourmet cheesemonger Daniel Epstein's epiphany came in 2002, at the northernmost point in Norway. Traveling with his band, Epstein found himself tired and hungry, facing a small snack stand that offered cookies and orange cheese. He recalls trying a food that was different from any cheese he had tasted before. Norwegian Gjetost, dark orange, creamy and soft, a combination of carmelized goat and cow milk, "hooked" Epstein. "Seven years later," he says, "here I am."

Fittingly, Epstein shared his story at the first-ever Journey through Cheese, a cheese course and tasting held on Tuesday, Dec. 15, at Above Restaurant. As he spoke, Epstein invited the dozen guests to sample Gjetost. "Look at it," he said. "Eat slowly. Smell." Epstein demonstrated retronasal tasting, which asks diners to inhale as the cheese hits the back of the tongue's palate. "You'll sense more flavors and smells," he promised.

The guests included newcomers to cheese, as well as seasoned aficionados. One woman referred to the more knowledgeable guests as "cheese whizzes," which seemed an apt description. 

My own journey to cheese began with Monty Python's famous Cheese Shop sketch, which I found funny for years. When I learned that the red Leicester, Caerphilly and Pol le Veq that the customer tries in vain to purchase are real, the skit seemed to reflect the state of my local supermarket, almost "uncontaminated by cheese." Times have changed for cheesephiles. Epstein pointed to a growing appreciation of cheese, as well as a thriving market for vegetarian-friendly cheeses.

I had wondered what the difference was between those cheeses and more traditional varieties. Epstein described the 10 stages of cheese-making as "chemistry that makes us happy." Rennet, which is an animal product, is used in traditional cheese production to coagulate milk solids. Vegetarian cheeses rely on fungal or bacterial rennet. Epstein noted, however, that, as in any chemical process, "make an alteration, and you produce a different cheese."

The unofficial 11th stage of cheese-making is "to eat and enjoy," according to Epstein. Our first "stop" on the journey through cheese was St. Simeon, Ile-de-France, where we tasted a rich brie, unlike anything I've seen on a cheese plate before. When a guest asked if the rind was edible, Epstein said yes, with a caveat. Because brie rind can be acidic, it can overwhelm wine that is served with it. "You'll know what you like," said Epstein.

Our second stop was Cuneo, Piedmont, Italy, where we tasted a Raschera. This was an opportunity for Epstein to answer questions about the taste difference between cheese made with summer and winter milks. Spring milk is lighter and more herbal, as cows are grazing outdoors. Winter milk has a taste of hay and is a bit heavier.

Epstein was very eager to share the third cheese with his guests. Garroxta is a product of Catalonian Spain. "It's playful and little defiant," said Epstein. It's a goat cheese, but it's no chevre; it's cakey, flaky and "risque." Epstein described it as a "hot animalistic cheese," and several of us made a note.

Grafton Clothbound Cheddar from Vermont was our fourth stop on the journey. He warned those of us who know cheddar from the supermarket that this cheese "is different in every conceivable way." The calico-wrapped, lard-rubbed wheel in front of us revealed a crumbly and buttery cheese. The cheddar showed veins of blue, which Epstein described as "green fade." 

Several of the cheesephiles at Above are regulars at the Eden Gourmet cheese counter, and Epstein is happy to send e-mail alerts about new arrivals. Epstein hinted that a "beefy" Grayson and a Le Demon du Midi are expected soon, with some Hudson Valley cheeses to follow shortly. 

The Berkshire Blue from Great Barrington, Mass., was our final stop. This cheese, which was an unusually solid and creamy blue, is a newer artisanal product. With a palate cleansed by three types of bread, dried fruit and lettuce, the group was ready for this new taste. Tangy and smooth, it was my favorite of the bunch.

Epstein closed by quoting pundit Clifton Fadiman, who remarked, "Cheese is milk's leap into immortality." Immortality is a lot to ask, but the memory of a good cheese, selected wisely and shared in pleasant company, is entirely possible to achieve. I did so on a Journey though Cheese, right here in South Orange.